The Best Road Bike Pedals of 2023

May 29, 2023

We tested 10 of the best road bike pedals available in 2023 to help you find the right pair to suit your needs, preferences, and budget, and improve your ride.

If you are a road cyclist, finding the right pair of road bike pedals can enhance your efficiency and comfort on the bike. This seemingly simple component is a critical workhorse on your bike as it is subject to many thousands of revolutions and all the pedaling forces applied from your legs.

Along with your road bike shoes, your road bike pedals form one of only three contact points between you and your machine, and it is particularly important when it comes to efficiency. Creating a mechanical connection between the sole of your shoe and the pedal, clipless road pedals help to maximize your pedaling effort throughout the pedal stroke while keeping your foot in the optimal position for transferring your power into the drivetrain. With stiff axles, lightweight bodies, and broad platforms, road bike pedals also provide stability, comfort, and control, while adjustments to cleat positioning, float, and entry/release tension allow you to optimize their fit, feel, and performance to your specific needs.

With so many options to choose from, finding the right pair of road bike pedals can be a challenge. To help, we rounded up a diverse selection of models from Shimano, Look, Time, and Speedplay to test and compare side by side. Whether you’re new to clipless road pedals or are upgrading from an old pair, there are great options to suit all riding styles, performance needs, and budgets.

After months of testing, we’ve chosen our favorite models which are listed below followed by the best of the rest that are all worthy contenders as well. To see the specs of the models we tested at a glance, check out our handy comparison chart. If you need help deciding what to buy or simply want to learn more about road bike pedals, our buying advice and FAQ section have the info you need.

Shimano’s Dura-Ace SPD-SL pedal is an uncompromised triumph of engineering and performance. It has no faults, downsides, or quirks, just pure race-winning efficiency, set-it-and-forget durability, and quiet simplicity. While researching these pedals, Google suggested the search “are Dura Ace pedals worth it?” At $280, it’s a question worth asking, but we say HECK yes!

Across the bike industry, many products are touted for their superior “stiffness-to-weight” ratio. It’s a simple-to-understand, and therefore simple-to-market concept – that something can be both lightweight and able to handle all the power you can throw at it. Most of the time this stiffness-to-weight narrative over-simplifies something that deserves a more nuanced assessment, like a frame or wheelset. But in the case of pedals, especially those meant for racing, stiffness to weight is bullet point number one. Overall, including cleat hardware, they are one of the lightest options on the market, and from the moment you first stomp on them, it’s evident that they are supremely stiff.

The latest version of the Dura-Ace pedal is the 9200, identical to the Dura-Ace 9100 model that “preceded” it. In fact, the core design of all Shimano SPD-SL road pedals hasn’t changed in decades. This design, dubbed “SPD-SL” is easy to install and adjust, runs smooth and quiet, and transfers power from your shoes to your crank arms with as little waste as possible. Thanks to oversized stainless steel axles and injection-molded carbon fiber body, you can actually feel a difference in the Dura-Ace model out on the road. It’s subtle, but there is just a bit less lateral flex through the pedal, and this creates a very pleasing feel under higher power efforts.

Installing the Shimano cleats is a breeze. Simply dab some grease on the threads of the bolts grab a 5mm torque wrench tool, and bolt the cleats to the sole of your shoe, including the provided rectangular washer. Slide the cleat around to adjust the fore/aft and toe in/out if needed. Shimano provides blue cleats with less “float” (2 degrees) with the Dura Ace 9200, which is a nice touch. Most folks who choose the 9200 pedal will appreciate the markedly locked-in feel that the lower float cleats provide. If it’s too rigid, you can always replace the cleats with the standard float option (6 degrees), which uses yellow color coding, and allows a bit more lateral movement in the ankle and knee, or for those who want no float, the red cleats have 0 degrees. Anyone with a wider stance width preference can also purchase the +4mm spindle version.

Release tension is adjusted independently, and has no bearing on how the pedal feels once the cleat has engaged. That said, all Shimano pedals require an intentional sideways kick to release the cleat. While this does take slightly more effort than other brands, the benefit is that the cleat will never come out of the pedal unexpectedly or even vaguely feel as though it might. Engaging the cleat requires some learning, but once you master the toe-in, heel-down sequence, it becomes intuitive and automatic.

Shimano’s Dura-Ace SPD-SL pedals are reliable to the point of being a “set-it-and-forget-it” component. They never make noise, not even in the sloppiest of winter conditions. Shimano isn’t disrupting the pedal market with the Dura Ace 9200, but it is continuing to dominate it because no other pedal offers the performance, simplicity, and reliability of this pedal.

It’s fair to ask what even separates Shimano’s flagship Dura-Ace pedals from its value-packed 105 PD-R7000 SPD-SL pedal, which is roughly half the cost. The two look virtually identical, with carbon fiber bodies with stainless contact plates, and both feature wide-set high-quality axle bearings. Although the 105 PD-R7000 are a bit heavier than their Dura-Ace and Ultegra siblings, due to being comprised of slightly different materials, the lower price and nearly identical performance mean that the Shimano 105 PD-R7000 is an excellent value.

Functionally, the Shimano 105 pedals work nearly identically to the more expensive Ultegra and Dura-Ace models. The primary difference is that they weigh about 30 grams more for the pair, a difference that will likely go unnoticed by all but the most discerning of riders. They still have the same size wide platform for excellent contact and lateral stability, although the steel contact plates are smaller. They also share the same cleat attachment system with adjustable entry and release tension controlled by turning a small screw on the rear. The 105 pedals also share the same cleats, and installing them is quite easy.

Unlike the Dura-Ace pedals, the 105 model comes with Shimano’s yellow cleats that have 6 degrees of float. This provides a more forgiving interface for those who prefer more float or are just getting used to clipless pedals. Both the blue (2 degrees) and the red (0 degrees) are available aftermarket for those who prefer a tighter feel. Another difference is that the 105 pedals are not offered in a +4mm spindle option, so those looking to widen their stance width will still need to spring for the more expensive options.

On the bike, the 105 pedals perform dutifully and give little, if anything, to complain about. Clipping in requires the same toe-in, heel-down motion, that quickly becomes second nature. Assuming your cleats are adjusted properly, releasing from the pedals is just as easy with a twist of the heel, and unexpected clip-outs are a total non-issue, in our experience. They also spin smoothly, and unlike some other brands, remain virtually silent underfoot for seasons on end.

If you’re willing to accept a slight weight penalty, the Shimano 105 SPD-SL pedals are an excellent option that performs nearly on par with the higher-tier options in the brand’s lineup. There are less expensive pedals, but we feel the ratio of price to performance makes the 105 one of the best values on the market.

Originally based in France, Time was recently acquired by SRAM and continues to make excellent pedals across all disciplines. Time has a unique design that we’ll detail below, and a loud and proud European aesthetic that adds to the aggressive look of any road bike. The Xpro 12 is one step down from the range-topping, and wildly expensive, XPro 15, and it will save you a bunch of money in comparison, though they still aren’t exactly cheap either.

The XPro 12 features a carbon fiber body and titanium axle, both of which are expected features in a pedal at the $317 US price point. What is certainly not expected about the XPro 12 is the fairing that graces the bottom of the pedal and claims to make the pedal more aerodynamic. Is this noticeable in use, not necessarily, but Time still deserves kudos for giving the XPro 12 a highly stylized aero treatment. The fairing immediately grabs your attention, as it’s adorned with a large Time logo against a bright red backdrop. The faring also serves the purpose of protecting the carbon body from damage during crashes and from the routine abuse that almost all pedals take, since they sit far outboard of the frame of the bike.

Clipping in and out of the Time XPro 12 is a pleasure. The iClic system delivers a more fluid and free step-in than any other pedal in this test. Time’s iClic design remains open whenever the cleat is disengaged from the pedal, and therefore is able to freely accept the cleat during the next step-in. Complimenting the iClic design is the oversized 725mm-squared surface area of the pedal, which provides added confidence during step-in, and a very solid base for throwing down big power.

Float in the stock “free” cleat ranges between -5 to +5 degrees, and zero-float cleats are available for those who simply want a locked-in feel without any float adjustment. They also have 2.5mm of lateral float, which is noticeable. The 16-degree release angle of the XPro 12 feels very easy to unclip, without creating any fears that the cleat would disengage unexpectedly. The release tension is also adjustable between 3 different tension levels of the carbon blade, so you can fine-tune the XPro 12 to your preference in this regard.

Out on the road, the XPro 12 delivers what you’d expect, which is a fluid, light feeling at the cranks, and quiet performance. Although Time pedals don’t have the same absolutely locked-in feel of Shimano SPD-SL, it’s easy to recommend them just as quickly to a rider who isn’t already accustomed to the Shimano feel. If you want to try a high-quality, and easy-to-use alternative to Shimano SPD-SL or Look Keo, the Time XPro 12 is worth a close look. It’s a classy product that will add an undeniable European flare to any road bike.

Look has always been at the cutting edge of clip-in cycling pedals, having brought the first widely-adopted model to market in 1984 with the PP65. Core design elements of the PP65 endure in many of Look’s pedal offerings to this day. The Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic pedal, however, represents a radical shift from the norm, by substituting a traditional steel spring with a “blade” of carbon fiber that flexes open and returns shut to secure the cleat.

Thanks to this blade of carbon fiber – handsomely decorated with Look’s Mondrian graphics – the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic achieves supreme weight savings, coming in at just 290g for the pair including cleats. This is even slightly lighter than Shimano’s flagship Dura-Ace pedals, which are our overall favorite. Stiffness and efficiency are also on par with Dura-Ace, thanks to a low 14.8mm stack height, and hardened steel axles. As the model name indicates, the Blade Carbon Ceramic also features ceramic axle bearings, which roll ultra-smooth and are not an option with Dura-Ace.

Out on the road, the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic performs brilliantly, with a fluid but stiff response to even the angriest accelerations. These are pedals for racing, so it’s no surprise that they feel this way. The stock 12Nm tension carbon blades provide plenty of cleat security without feeling overly resistant to clip-ins, accompanied by a resonant and affirmative click. They come with Look’s Keo Grip cleats that have a small patch of TPU at the front and back to add a little grip when walking, with the standard version offering 4.5 degrees of float. Look also sells 0-degree and 9-degree float cleats if you prefer more or less float.

While the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic are great-looking, lightweight, and high-performing pedals, there is an issue that seems to affect every Look pedal and actually stems from the cleat – persistent noise. Second, adjusting the release tension requires changing out the carbon blade, using multiple tools. It’s not something you’re going to do frequently, and perhaps never, but it is remarkable that the pedal has to be partially disassembled in order to make such a basic adjustment. Lastly, we have seen the blades crack. While this didn’t happen to our test pair, it is something we have witnessed twice. Look does offer a two-year warranty, and we would recommend stashing the extra blades provided in your saddle bag for any remote riding on these pedals.

Despite the abovementioned concerns, the performance of the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic is impressive and certainly makes them fit for the purpose of racing. Recreational riders might be better served by Look’s Keo Max, which uses a traditional metal spring, but those looking for the super-smooth performance of ceramic bearings in a sleek and lightweight package should check out the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic. Anyone looking to save a little money can opt for the Keo Blade Carbon with stainless steel bearings and a slight increase in weight.

Representing a departure from the more common style of pedals and cleats from Shimano, Look, and Time, Speedplay brings something unique to the table. While the brand has been around for a long time, they were recently acquired by Wahoo Fitness which has brought the pedals back to market. The Wahoo Speedplay Nano pedals deliver low weight, dual-sided engagement, clean looks, and adjustable float. Cleat installation is complex relative to other options. Still, once they are adjusted correctly, Speedplay pedals are indeed very nice to ride, with a fluid pedaling feel and lots of adjustability that could potentially unlock greater comfort and efficiency than more traditional options.

The Speedplay Nano is the top-tier option in the brand’s 4 models (not including the Powrlink power meter options), and they feature high-end materials like a brushed titanium spindle, along with carbon fiber in the circular-shaped body of the pedal. This combination of materials keeps the weight to a scant 170g for the pair (pedals only), bolsters stiffness, and enhances the aesthetics of any high-end road machine. Additionally, they have the lowest stack height of any model on the market, at just 11.5mm (or as low as 8.5mm with 4-bolt shoes), which promises marginally better cornering clearance.

While your bike might look and feel more svelte with Speedplay pedals installed, it is worth noting that the cleats are heavier than most, which results in a higher system weight than other high-end options. The reason Speedplay cleats weigh more is that instead of a standard 3-bolt cleat interface, they use a 4-bolt system that requires an adaptor (included) to work with most road bike shoes (unless you have 4-bolt shoes). This adaptor bolts to the shoes, and the cleat on top of that. The walkable cleat covers slip onto the cleats. It’s a relatively complex stack of hardware, and with all those layers, comes some extra weight.

Like any other cleats, they can be adjusted fore-aft, left-right, and angled for the desired positioning. They also offer adjustable float between 0 and 15 degrees as well as an adjustable release angle between 0 and 7.5 degrees. All this adjustability should allow most users to find their perfect settings and potentially help mitigate knee pain for some riders. Our only complaint about the adjustability is that it requires a small Phillips head screwdriver when a hex head would be more likely already in the toolbox and help prevent stripping the head. Installing and adjusting the cleats requires care and some patience, including reading the printed directions. Once the float is adjusted right, however, the pedals feel awesome.

On the road, the Wahoo Speedplay Nano has a light, smooth, and efficient feel. While clipping in isn’t any easier than other pedals, it becomes automatic within a few rides. With most of the system’s mass contained in the cleats and connected directly to the shoes, they feel rigid and stable when ramping up the power. If you are already accustomed to the locked-in feeling of the other brands, however, take note that Speedplay pedals are easier to disengage, and in turn, don’t feel quite as secure during super hard efforts. Excessive ankle movement during the pedal stroke could result in the cleats disengaging from the pedals unexpectedly. We found this to be more common with the “easy tension” cleats that come with the Comp version, though it still happened a few times with the “standard tension” cleats of the Nano.

Walking with Speedplay cleats is easy, thanks to the walkable cleat cover that’s included in every set of pedals. Still, it’s important to avoid walking on surfaces that could cause debris to collect inside the cleat, and the same goes for riding. These cleats need to remain clean to engage the pedal securely, so they may require frequent cleaning should you ride in dirty conditions with any regularity.

Overall, the Wahoo Speedplay Nano is a beautifully engineered and manufactured pedal, that does provide a wonderfully smooth feel underfoot. They wouldn’t be our first choice for dirty conditions or super hard, sprint-effort style riding, but smooth pedalers, or those looking for more adjustability than other brands offer may find a lot to like here.

Time makes a wide range of road bike pedals, from the nearly range-topping XPro 12, down to the super affordable XPresso 2. At just $69, these are an accessible entry point to road clipless, and they feature a similar design and performance to the brand’s much more expensive options.

In our opinion, one of the best features of the Xpresso 2 is the iClic system that makes getting in and out of the pedals very easy, which is especially attractive for those new to clipless. When you clip out, the mechanism remains open until you clip back in, making these some of the easiest and most intuitive pedals to use. Still, they have three settings of tension adjustment to dial them in to your liking, as well as a large 700 mm-squared contact area.

The Xpresso 2 comes with iClic free foot cleats that allow +5 and -5 degrees of float. Additionally, they allow for 2.5mm of lateral movement, which may also appeal to those starting out who don’t want to feel too locked in to their pedals. The 16-degree release angle makes clipping out fairly easy while also helping to prevent unexpected releases. The Xpresso 2 are also compatible with Time’s fixed cleats that have 0 degrees of float and don’t allow any lateral movement for those who prefer a more solid connection.

For riders who are new to clipping in, the XPresso 2 makes a strong case by offering the iClic system at just $69. It is tangibly easier to use than any other clip-in pedal and will make you wonder why you ever waited to clip into your road bike. Those willing to spend a little more can find the same ease of use in the XPresso 4 and the XPresso 7, which have the same design but use slightly different materials and are both quite reasonably priced.

By using slightly heavier materials and placing slightly less emphasis on axle stiffness than its Dura-Ace counterpart, the Ultegra SPD-SL pedal from Shimano makes a strong case as a better option for most recreational riders. The PD-R8100 retains all the same attributes that made the Dura Ace pedals the winner of this test – excellent stiffness to weight, easy cleat set-up, and a silent and maintenance-free service life – but at a significant cost saving.

Starting with an extra-wide injection-molded carbon fiber body, the Ultegra PD-R8100 asserts itself as a serious performance component. The substantial width of the pedal body distributes pedaling forces across a larger area of the foot for added efficiency and comfort on long rides.

The use of carbon keeps the weight down to 248g for the pair of pedals, only about 13 grams heavier than the Dura-Ace version.

Moving inboard to the axle reveals the first easily discernable difference from the Dura Ace pedals, as the outer diameter of the axle is not quite as wide, resulting in a little bit more flex under big surges of power. Still, the Ultegra pedals acquit themselves well here, as it takes a huge wallop of wattage to even notice this slight difference. Within the axle, wide-spaced bearings ensure stable and even load distribution, helping the bearings stay smooth for many thousands of miles.

Unlike the Dura-Ace version, Shimano provides the standard, yellow cleats with 6 degrees of float, which is in keeping with the needs of recreational road riders who prioritize comfort as well as efficiency. Those who desire less float and purchase the blue (2.5 degrees) or red (0 degree) cleats and swap them out. Installation is quick and easy with the standard 3-bolt design that works on most road shoes. Entry and release tension is easily adjusted to suit your preference. Additionally, Shimano sells a +4mm spindle version for those looking to increase their stance width slightly.

Engaging the cleat involves the familiar toe-in and heel-down movement that most road pedals require and it becomes second nature. Clicking out does require a relatively deliberate twist of the heel and, while it may take a little more force than some other brands, it provides some assurance that your feet won’t unexpectedly come flying off the pedals when you’re putting down a hard effort.

If you want 95% of the performance of Dura-Ace with only the slightest weight penalty and $80 in your pocket to put towards other bike parts, the Shimano Ultegra SPD-SL pedals are a no-brainer. These are one component you can put on your bike and not think about for thousands of miles because they work, and they work well.

Weighing only 12 additional grams, and utilizing a more conventional spring-style tension system, the Look Keo 2 Max Carbon is a compelling alternative to the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic pedals, at well under half the cost.

The Keo 2 Max features a broad stainless steel plate to create a secure and efficient connection between the pedal and cleat, capable of withstanding race-winning efforts or just helping save a few watts during your next weekend adventure. The pedal body, as the name suggests, is injection-molded carbon fiber, which brings the overall weight down to a competitive 252g for the set (pedals only), and further bolsters stiffness.

The most basic duty of a pedal is to secure the cleat, and to that end, the Keo 2 Max Carbon arguably is the best choice among Look’s offerings. While the more expensive Keo Blade is certainly an innovative design, which forgoes the traditional spring-tension design in favor of flexible carbon fiber “blades”, the Keo 2 Max sticks to the tried-and-true spring design, and thereby prioritizes reliability and affordability, while only adding a handful of grams. Opinions may vary, but we feel it seems like a more robust design than the Keo Blade Carbon, regardless of the fact that it costs significantly less.

On the road, the Keo 2 Max Carbon is adequately stiff and provides excellent stability throughout all kinds of riding. Clipping in and out is easy and predictable thanks to the width of the pedal body. Not only is it easy to locate the entry point, but the shape of the pedal allows for instant confidence when pushing down hard to engage the spring and clip in. The efficiency of the Keo 2 Max Carbon feels excellent, thanks to high-quality steel axle bearings. The provided cleats offer a modest 4.5 degree of float, which should work well for most riders. Look offers replacement cleats in both 0 and 9 degrees of float for those with different needs.

One of the only drawbacks to this and other Look pedals is the potential for the cleats to be noisy. We, and many others, have experienced this issue and it is something we hope Look eventually addresses with an update to the plastic used in their cleats as it slightly diminishes the user experience of an otherwise great product.

Overall, there are no surprises with the Keo 2 Max Carbon. This pedal represents a refinement of everything that has made Look pedals great for decades. Racers on a budget and enthusiast riders should consider this pedal, as it will keep their bikes light, and provide a stiff, efficient, reliable connection to the crank arms without draining your bank account.

Since being taken over by Wahoo Fitness, Speedplay road bike pedals have returned to the market and offer something completely different than the majority of other brands on the market. The Speedplay Comp is the least expensive model in the lineup, bringing a similar design and performance at a third of the cost of the top-tier Speedplay Nano.

Just like their more expensive siblings, the Speedplay Comp is based around a small, disc-shaped pedal body that has sleek, minimalist looks, an impressively low stack height, and allows for dual-sided entry. They use a slightly heavier Chromoly spindle and Grivory composite body material, but the pedals themselves are still fairly lightweight at just 233 grams for the pair. Unlike the Nano, which has a 180 lbs rider weight limit, the Comp has no weight restrictions.

Compared to more traditional pedal styles, the Speedplay Comp uses a 4-bolt cleat design that requires the use of an included adaptor on the majority of road bike shoes (unless they are 4-bolt shoes). The addition of the adaptor adds some complexity to the cleat mounting process, as well as some additional weight with the cleats plus adaptor coming in around 163 grams and bumping the total system weight up above similarly priced options from other brands. That said, they are more adjustable than most, and the walkable cover of the Speedplay cleats does make it relatively easy to walk around in your shoes.

Given the added complexity of the cleat installation process, we recommend paying attention to the included instructions to be sure you get it right. The nice thing is they offer fore-aft, side-to-side, and angle adjustments, as well as adjustable float from 0-15 degrees and an adjustable release angle between 0 and 7.5 degrees. This is more adjustability than most traditional systems offer, and it may be great for those who are seeking a very personalized pedal interface to enhance comfort or optimize their biomechanics and ergonomics.

The Speedplay Comp comes with “easy tension” cleats that allow for slightly easier entry and release, as compared to the “standard tension” version that has a more secure hold. It’s worth mentioning that these pedals are much easier to release from than other styles and they don’t provide as secure or locked-in of a feel, comparatively speaking. They do provide plenty of stiffness and a very smooth, fluid pedaling feel, but we found that super hard sprint efforts or lots of ankle movement could result in unexpected disengagement. We do, however, also expect that is something you’ll adapt to over time.

Another thing worth mentioning is that the cleats don’t get along well with dirt, so we’d recommend against using them for gravel riding or other dirty conditions. The cleat/pedal interface needs to be kept clean to clip in securely, so if you do get them dirty, they will likely require cleaning.

All that said, the Speedplay Comp is an affordable entry point for this unique pedal system. If you’re seeking more adjustability than traditional pedals offer or you just want to try something different, the Speedplay Comp is a slick-looking option that won’t break the bank.

The Keo 3 Classic Plus is an affordable, entry-level pedal from Look that features all the hallmarks of the Keo design, plus two stainless steel plates that create a secure and efficient connection between the pedal and cleat surface, saving you energy mile after mile.

Much like the rest of Look’s road pedals, clipping into the Keo Classic 3 Plus is intuitive, and the cleat tension is easy to adjust to your preference with a small hex tool. They come with standard cleats that allow for 4.5 degrees of float, which is likely the sweet spot for most riders. Both 0-degree and 9-degree cleat options are also offered as an aftermarket purchase should have different needs. Cleat set-up is also very straightforward and quick with the traditional 3-bolt cleat that works on most road shoes.

With a sturdy Chromoly spindle and a Composite pedal body with 2 steel contact plates, the Keo Classic 3 Plus performs well out on the road. They feel stiff, stable, and responsive. Though the platform width and contact area are a bit smaller at 60mm wide and 400 mm squared, they still provide a large enough surface area and support for most recreational riding and riders.

Our test pair of Keo Classic 3 Plus pedals felt very smooth and efficient, likely due to the use of high-quality steel bearings. The use of less exotic materials, however, does result in a slightly heavier weight, which at 350 grams for pedals and cleats isn’t terribly heavy, especially considering the price. And, like most Look pedals, the cleats are a little more prone to creating noise compared to other brands.

Overall, the Keo Classic 3 Plus is a modern take on Look’s classic pedal designs. While they won’t blow you away with their performance, they are easy to get along with and are a sensible option for those just starting out with clipless that will absolutely get the job done at a very approachable price point.

For well over a decade, the Bikerumor team has been reporting on the latest news, technology, and products across all disciplines of cycling. Our staff is made up of passionate riders who enjoy all types of riding and are obsessed with finding the best products to enhance their experience and performance on the bike. From bike frames to wheels, shoes to bib shorts, and everything in between, we know that having the right gear can make a huge difference. We also have the luxury and privilege of testing the latest and greatest products, including pedals, for product launches, individual reviews, and buyer’s guides.

Our road bike pedals buyer’s guide tester and review author, Bennett Shane, has over two decades of road cycling experience. While his racing days are largely behind him, he still enjoys putting in big miles, long climbs, and fast, mountain descents on roads throughout the Pacific Northwest near his home in Portland, OR. In addition to his wealth of cycling experience, Bennett has worked for several prominent brands in the cycling industry which has given him unique insight into the design, materials, and construction of products across categories spanning from apparel to components. Combined, his industry and cycling experience give him the ability to understand products from both sides of the table, but most importantly as a consumer, and he has developed an excellent ability to tease out the often subtle performance differences in the products he tests. Bennett has spent an inordinate amount of time on his road bikes this year testing and reviewing a variety of road cycling gear including high-performance road bike shoes, protective road bike helmets, and the best cycling bib shorts.

After rounding up 10 of the best road bike pedals on the market, Bennett mounted them up on his small fleet of road bikes and hit the pavement. Each model was tested over the course of several months, switching regularly between models for comparison. Back-to-back testing provides the opportunity to truly compare products side by side and identify performance differences that may otherwise go unnoticed. Each model’s design and construction were also examined and scrutinized along with adjustments and features to see how effective they really are. After extensive testing, favorites were identified, and our findings are presented here.

Finding the right pair of road bike pedals can enhance your comfort and efficiency on the bike. While many seasoned road bikers probably already have a brand preference, those looking to switch it up or who are just jumping into clipless pedals for the first time have some decisions to make. Assuming you are ready to purchase some pedals, what factors should influence your choice? We know that navigating the myriad models, materials, and marketing jargon can be confusing, so let’s dive into the details so you can make an informed purchase decision.

Along with road bike shoes, road bike pedals are a very important component as they serve as one of just three contact points between your body and your bike. They are an essential part of the energy transfer system between your legs and your drivetrain. But what exactly are road bike pedals and how do they differ from other types?

Pedals generally fall into three categories. There are clipless road bike pedals (3-bolt cleats), clipless mountain bike pedals (2-bolt cleats), and flat pedals. Whether you are a serious or recreational road cyclist, we recommend using road bike specific clipless pedals because they are designed and purpose-built for the task. That’s not to say that you can’t road bike with any type of pedals, because you certainly can, it’s just that road bike pedals are specifically made for the application. Clipless road bike pedals differ from their clipless mountain bike counterparts in several ways.

One of the main things that sets clipless road pedals apart is the 3-bolt cleat “standard”. With the exception of Wahoo Speedplay pedals that use a 4-bolt cleat (and come with a 3-bolt adaptor to work on most road bike shoes), nearly all road bike pedals use a 3-bolt cleat and work on road bike shoes that have a 3-bolt hole pattern on the sole. Shimano, Look, Time, and a handful of smaller pedal manufacturers, use similar, but definitely not the same, cleats that are triangular in shape. These large cleats aim to maximize the shoe-cleat-pedal interface and contact area, which helps to distribute pedaling forces over a larger area with the goal of increasing efficiency, stability, and comfort. Road bike pedals, of course, are designed to work in unison with their specific cleats to match their dimensions and create the super important connection between your legs and the cranks.

Most road bike pedals are one-sided, meaning that the cleat can only engage on one side of the pedal. The other side of the pedal is typically smooth in a somewhat aerodynamic shape. Generally speaking, the front of the cleat engages first before pushing the rear of the cleat down onto the retention mechanism. The exception here is Wahoo Speedplay pedals that allow for dual-sided engagement.

Clipless mountain bike pedals differ from road bike pedals with their 2-bolt cleats. These cleats are smaller and mount to shoes that are designed with a 2-bolt interface. Most mountain bike pedals allow for dual-sided engagement, and they come in a wide variety of styles with different-sized platforms designed to meet the differing needs of varying riding styles and preferences. Given the smaller size of the cleat, the soles of the shoes often interface with the platform of the pedals for additional support.

Pedal axles, or “spindles”, connect the body of the pedal to the crank arm of the bike. The outboard end sits inside the pedal platform and is exposed between the body and the crank arm, eventually threading into the tip of the crankarm. Stiffness is important here, because of the way the axle is positioned – perpendicular to the direction that force is applied to the pedal body. More expensive pedals will feature stiffer Titanium axles, which benefit racers, who apply repeated doses of explosive power. For recreational riders, steel or chromoly axles are sufficiently stiff, incurring a slight weight penalty while saving enough money to make choosing them a no-brainer.

Axle bearings allow the pedal to rotate against the circular motion of the crank arm, keeping the rider’s foot stable and promoting a fluid pedal stroke. If these bearings wear out, the axle may wobble and may produce noise. Most pedal axles can be overhauled, but unless you are doing it yourself and using high-end pedals, the labor bill won’t be much less expensive than replacing the pedals altogether. So, high-quality bearings are something to look for in a pedal that you want to install and never think about ever again. Most pedals use stainless steel bearings, with some high-end options going with ceramic bearings. While they are significantly more expensive, ceramic bearings are claimed to be more durable, lighter weight, and lower friction, potentially providing a marginal performance gain that may appeal to racers or anyone seeking a competitive advantage.

Along with every other bike part out there, pedal bodies have become more commonly made of carbon fiber in recent years. While carbon certainly isn’t a poor choice of material, its benefit is less obvious than parts that have more dynamic characteristics, such as frames and rims. Pedals are not an area of the bike where weight is of the utmost importance (although it is still certainly a consideration). Also, make sure that if you are choosing a pedal because it’s “light” you are looking at the weight of not only the pedals but the combined weight of the pedals and cleats.

While carbon fiber is becoming the material of choice for high-end pedals, many models are made from other composites. Regardless of the material used in the pedal body’s construction, many also include small steel plates on the contact area where the cleat and pedal interface. This is generally done to add stiffness as well as durability over time.

It’s important to use road bike pedals with the appropriate shoes. Much like road pedals, road bike shoes are designed to optimize pedaling efficiency and comfort on the bike. When paired together, they form the system that is the important connection between your legs and your drivetrain, transferring your pedaling power into forward momentum. Of course, road bike shoes come in a huge range of styles, constructions, materials, and price points with models made for everything from racing, sprinting, and endurance riding, to more casual, recreational riding. Finding a pair that fits well and suits your style is critical.

If you are buying both pedals and shoes, you want to make sure these items are compatible with each other. Nearly every road bike shoe (with the exception of those made specifically for use with Speedplay pedals) features a triangular set of three threaded holes in the forefoot of the outsole, meant to accept a 3-bolt road cleat. Each new pair of pedals comes with cleats that are made specifically to work with that pedal, and generally speaking, cleats are not cross-compatible between different brands. Speedplay cleats are an outlier as they are rectangular with a 4-bolt pattern and require an adapter to convert the 3-bolt pattern on most road shoes. This adapter is included with every pair of Speedplay pedals. Some brands offer Speedplay-specific shoes that feature a 4-bolt sole, and thus no adapter is required.

There are some road bike shoes, typically on the lower end of the price spectrum, that are both 3-bolt and 2-bolt compatible, meaning they can work with both road bike pedals and clipless mountain bike pedals.

Most road bike pedals offer a few adjustments that allow the user to dial them in to their preferences. These typically include entry and release tension and float. Additionally, the cleats themselves can be adjusted on the sole of the shoe to get them in the perfect spot for comfort and efficiency. Before heading out for your first ride, we recommend that familiarize yourself with all of the adjustments that your pedals offer and set them up how you like.

Having your cleats in the right location is important for the alignment of your leg for comfort and injury prevention, as well as to optimize the power of your pedal stroke. Most cleats offer a small range of fore-aft and side-to-side adjustability so the user can line them up in their preferred location underneath the ball of the foot. Often, the small metal inserts in the soles of the shoes can be moved slightly as well. Additionally, the angle of your cleats can also be adjusted slightly, toe-in or toe-out, if needed. Most quality road bike shoes have small alignment markings on the soles that can be helpful when dialing in your perfect cleat placement.

Most road bike pedals feature a tension adjustment that controls how easy it is to clip in and out of the pedal. The level of tension is typically a personal preference that may depend on the type of riding you do. Too much tension could lead to the dreaded situation where you’ve stopped the bike but are unable to get a foot out of the pedal and down to the ground. Conversely, riders who produce a lot of power will want to make sure there is sufficient tension to keep the foot in the pedal during explosive efforts. The majority of pedals have a small screw on the cleat retention mechanism that can be turned to tighten or loosen the tension to the desired setting. Look Keo Blade pedals are a little different in that they use carbon “blades” that can be swapped out to change the tension. Once again, Speedplay is an outlier in this regard as the tension is dictated by which cleat you use. They offer both “standard” and “easy” tension options.

All pedals offer some way of adjusting the “float”, which is the degree of angular movement the pedal allows the cleat to make. Float is important because foot movement can prevent or cause problems, depending on how much of it happens, and for how long. Foot movement, or lack thereof, affects everything up the chain, from the knee to the hip, and even the lower back, and it can be a process of trial and error to find what works best for you. Like anything else, personal preferences vary and often depend on the type of riding you’re doing, racing vs. casual, or the desired feel from your pedals. Less float provides a more secure, locked-in feel that is typically preferred by high-performance riders and more intense power output (track races, criteriums). Having less float does leave a little less margin for error in cleat positioning, so the set up can be more challenging. Higher degrees of float are considered more forgiving, allowing more freedom of movement and generally less tension on the joints. Higher float is usually preferred by those with joint issues and anyone undertaking long, steady endurance rides or lengthy road races.

The float in most pedal systems is dictated by which specific cleat is used. Most manufacturers offer two or three cleats that allow float from zero to 8 degrees or thereabouts. Look, for example, offers their Keo cleats in 0, 4.5, or 9-degree float options, which are color-coded in black, grey, and red, respectively. Similarly, Shimano offers three different cleats with 0, 2, and 6-degree options denoted by the colors red, blue, and yellow, respectively. Time offers two cleat options, “free” cleats with 5 degrees of float, or “fixed” cleats with 0 degrees of float. Speedplay is unique in that the cleat itself is adjusted to dial in the float in very fine increments, and the float can be quickly tailored to each shoe.

If you are new to clipless pedals, doing a little practice to get used to the way they function is never a bad idea. While it eventually becomes second nature, clipping in and out of pedals can be relatively awkward at first, but thankfully, the learning curve is steep. Though it might seem silly, taking a little time in a controlled environment to familiarize yourself with the process of clipping in and out of your pedals could be invaluable and potentially help prevent embarrassment or injury (bruised body and/or ego) while out on a ride. Yes, it is as simple as deliberately twisting your foot to release the cleat from the pedal, but just about everyone has experienced an awkward, slow-motion fall when they couldn’t get their foot out of the pedal as they were learning. Trust us, a little practice is worth your time.

As with all things in cycling, road bike pedals can be expensive. You can easily spend upwards of $300 for the lightest, stiffest, and fanciest pedals on the market, and many people will. Those seeking marginal performance gains or reductions in weight, typically high-performance riders and racers, will see the most benefit from spending more. If you’re not battling for podiums, however, you can spend less for nearly the same performance and with just a slight weight penalty. Take Shimano’s pedals, for example. The range-topping Dura-Ace model sells for $280 and delivers a top-of-the-line, well-refined performance at a light weight. Two tiers down, the Shimano 105 pedals look nearly identical, provide almost the same level of performance, and weigh only about 30 grams more for the pair while costing roughly half the price at $150. For this reason, we feel the Shimano 105 is one of the best values on the market. Those new to road cycling or who ride less frequently can spend even less for a model like the $69 Time XPresso 2, which is super user-friendly and gets the job done at a fraction of the price.

If you are riding strictly on the road, it makes sense to use dedicated road pedals. This style of pedal provides a broad platform that spreads out the pressure of your pedal stroke evenly across your forefoot, preventing hot spots from developing during long rides involving tens or even hundreds of thousands of pedal revolutions. Combined with a well-fitting pair of road bike shoes, they work as a system to efficiently deliver your pedaling energy to the cranks and propel your bike forward. So, along with pedals, the right shoes will help to enhance your efficiency, stability, control, and comfort on the bike.

The term clipless is undoubtedly a confusing one given the fact that you actually clip in to clipless pedals. Well, prior to the advent of clipless designs, most pedals were essentially flat pedals that had what was referred to as a “toe clip” that wrapped up and over the front of the toes. This toe clip helped prevent the foot from sliding forward on the pedal while also holding the foot more securely to help maximize pedaling efficiency through the whole pedal stroke. When clipless pedals came around, they did not have the toe clip and became referred to as clipless as a result.

Yes, absolutely. Many people use mountain bike style clipless pedals that use 2-bolt cleats on their road bikes. Generally speaking, people will use small, XC-style pedals in this case because they are lighter weight compared to those with larger platforms. If you already have shoes that you like that use a 2-bolt cleat, this may also be the most cost-effective solution. Many modern cross-country mountain bike shoes are essentially more rugged versions of road bike shoes and they can easily meet the demands of road, gravel, and cross-country riding.

Installing a new set of pedals is a fairly simple process, but it is very important to know that the left (non drive side) pedal is reverse-threaded while the right side is threaded regularly. And, due to the threading of the spindles, and also to the design of the pedals, they are right and left side specific. Once you have identified which pedal is which, apply some grease to the threads and screw the spindle into the crankarm. Most pedals use an 8mm hex, although some outliers use a 6mm hex or a 15mm pedal wrench, to tighten them down. You generally want to get pedals fairly tight, and Shimano recommends a torque range of 35 – 55 Nm for their pedals, for example.

It is important to note that you can damage your pedals and/or your crankarms if you cross-thread them during installation or try to install the wrong pedal on the wrong side of the cranks. The pedal should thread into the crankarm very easily, and if it does not, don’t force it! You should stop and check the alignment of the threads to avoid any potentially expensive problems.

Awkwardly, carefully, and as little as possible. Yes, walking on road cleats is awkward, tedious, and even unsafe on some floor surfaces. This is because the size of the cleat precludes compatible road shoes from incorporating tread onto their outsoles. Additionally, the size, shape, and position of the cleats themselves prevent a regular walking motion. This is not to say that you can’t or shouldn’t walk in your road bike shoes, you’ll just want to be careful if/when you do. Thankfully, most road bike shoes have a small traction pad on the heel, and many road cleats also have a small amount of grippier material applied to the contact points to add a tiny level of grip for walking. With some practice, it does become easier, but it never stops being awkward.

While you certainly can use road bike pedals on your gravel or mountain bike, it is generally not recommended. The primary reason is that road bike shoes and road bike cleats are already awkward enough to walk around in on firm, flat surfaces, so walking in them on gravel roads or trails is even worse. The cleats and the soles of your shoes will be susceptible to damage and premature wear. We always recommend riding your mountain or gravel bike with clipless mountain bike pedals with 2-bolt cleats, and mountain bike shoes that are more appropriate for off-road use. Yes, some gravel riders and racers will use road bike pedals and shoes for certain gravel rides – typically consisting of smooth gravel with little likelihood of needing to walk in your shoes – but there are usually better options.

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